Albert Cuyp is Amsterdam's biggest street market and it's extraordinary — Dutch herring, stroopwafels fresh off the iron, Indonesian street food, and a poffertjes stand that's been in the same family since 1952. Then we eat in De Pijp, the neighbourhood that actually feeds Amsterdam.

The Rijksmuseum has 8,000 objects. You need to see 17 of them — and I know which ones and why. Including the painting where Rembrandt hid something that nobody noticed for 200 years.

We ride through the Amsterdam that tourists miss — the Jordaan's hidden courtyards (hofjes), the Eastern Docklands architecture, the Westerpark with its film studios — and we stop wherever looks interesting. I don't use a script.

The Jordaan's hofjes are Amsterdam's best-kept secret — medieval almshouse courtyards hidden behind unmarked doors. We visit four of them, then finish at a craft brewery that uses surplus bread to make their beer.

Four stops through Amsterdam's contemporary food scene: a rooftop farm above a car park, a fermentation specialist who makes the best kimchi and kombucha in the Netherlands, a natural wine bar, and the restaurant that got the first Michelin Green Star in the Netherlands.