Prague Castle's human stories — the defenestrations, secret passages, and details the standard tour skips.

The neighbourhood pubs Prague locals actually drink at — cheaper, better, and full of character.

Prague has the world's best Art Nouveau architecture outside of Paris — and the Mucha Museum has the artist's most intimate work. I take you through both in one morning, including three apartment buildings you can walk into that have original 1905 interiors.

The Jiřák market in Vinohrady on a Saturday morning — local farmers, artisan bread, Czech cheese, and the best svíčková sandwich outside of a restaurant. Then a private cooking lesson in my flat making trdelník from scratch.

The Žižkov TV Tower (the one with the crawling babies), the National Memorial on Vítkov Hill, the brutalist hotel that has been a luxury hostel since 2010 — communist Prague is bizarre, enormous, and genuinely fascinating.

Czech beer is the best in the world and most visitors drink the wrong kind in the wrong places. Four pubs in Žižkov and Vinohrady — from a century-old working-class hospoda to a craft brewery that's doing something genuinely new with Czech lager traditions.