The Hungarian National Gallery is inside the Royal Palace and covers 900 years of Hungarian art — much of which is explicitly political. I take you through the collection as a history lesson: wars, revolutions, occupations, and the art that survived all of them.

Tourists never go to Óbuda — which means they miss a Roman amphitheatre bigger than the Colosseum, a perfectly preserved Baroque town square, and the fact that Budapest is actually three cities (Buda, Óbuda, and Pest) that were only merged in 1873.