Szimpla Kert is the original ruin bar — built in a derelict apartment complex in 2001. But the scene has evolved. I take you through three generations of ruin bars in one evening, from the grandparent to the most interesting new venue opening this year.

The Budapest Jewish Quarter has a food culture that is simultaneously one of the oldest and most overlooked in Central Europe — lángos, chimney cake done properly, Hungarian kürtős, and a deli counter at the Great Synagogue that has been feeding the neighbourhood since 1931.