Two of Rome's best food markets in one morning — Campo de' Fiori for the theatre and the flowers, Testaccio for the serious eating. The fruttarolo who knows my name, the norcineria with the oldest cured meats in the city, and arancini at a counter that has been there since before my grandmother was born.

The Rome that exists in my family's kitchen — supplì at the best counter in the city, pasta e ceci at a trattoria that has had four tables since 1948, and a mercato visit where my mother still shops every Tuesday.

My family's kitchen in Trastevere, my grandmother's recipe, your hands. We make cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and gricia from scratch — and then we eat what we make, with wine.