The anti-tourist Barcelona panorama: we walk up to the Civil War anti-aircraft bunkers above El Carmel for the best 360-degree view in the city — no ticket, no queue, cold beer from a local kiosk.

Contemporary Barcelona: the skaters in front of MACBA, the street art in the Raval, and what the museum curators won't tell you about why this neighbourhood feels electric.

Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, and three Modernisme buildings tourists never enter — all with an architect's eye. I'll show you the structural logic behind what looks like pure fantasy.