The Pompidou has one of the world's great modern art collections — but it's enormous and overwhelming. I build a 2-hour route around 15 works that are genuinely extraordinary, skipping the rest, including the one installation that has made grown adults cry.

Montmartre has two layers — the Sacré-Cœur tourist version and the actual working village underneath it. Vineyard, the only functioning windmill in Paris, the cemetery with a genuinely moving backstory, and the atelier where a friend of mine paints.