The Kunsthistorisches is the 4th largest art museum in the world — and most visitors spend 90 minutes looking at the wrong things. I take you through 2 hours of the paintings that are genuinely extraordinary: Bruegel's entire surviving output, Caravaggio in Vienna, and a Velázquez that will make you stop.

The Naschmarkt is 1.5km of food stalls — Austrian producers, Turkish bakeries, Iranian spice merchants, and the best Wurst counter in the city. We spend a morning eating through it, ending with a glass of Grüner Veltliner at a wine bar that opens at 9am because Vienna.

The Viennese Kaffeehaus is not a café — it's an institution. You sit as long as you like. The waiter brings your newspaper. Nobody rushes you. We visit three, each from a different era and with a different character, and I explain what each one tells you about Vienna.