Mouraria is Lisbon's oldest Moorish neighbourhood and the actual birthplace of fado — before it became a tourist attraction in Alfama. We walk through streets that were outside every tourist map 10 years ago and hear the history from someone who grew up here.

Campo de Ourique is Lisbon's most beautiful neighbourhood market — tiled floors, Art Nouveau ironwork, vendors who've been there for 40 years. We spend a morning eating pastéis de nata, bacalhau croquettes, and the best cheese in Portugal.

We eat petiscos (Portuguese tapas) at three different tabernas in Alfama — the neighbourhood's oldest, the chef's favourite, and one that has only six seats — and we end with live fado in a restaurant that hasn't changed since 1960.