Thursdays at Markthalle Neun are the best food event in Berlin — Street Food Thursday draws producers from across Germany. But I also know the market on quiet days, when the real producers set up and it's just locals. We do both.

Neukölln is where Berlin's food future is being written — Vietnamese pho counters, Ethiopian injera restaurants, a Jewish deli that opened last year and already has a 2-hour wait. We eat through all of it in one afternoon.