Dubai went from fishing village to global city in 50 years. The Dubai Museum is small, overlooked, and tells a story that is more remarkable than anything in the skyline. We do the museum and then walk to the old fishing boat harbour that still operates.

Karama is where Dubai's South Asian community lives and eats — Keralite fish curry, South Indian breakfast, a bakery that makes the best samosas in the Gulf. We eat through it in one morning and I'll tell you the stories of the families who have been here for three generations.