The Barcelona nobody puts on Instagram: courtyard fountains that only residents know, a medieval church that's been a car park and a rave venue, and the best cañas in the city — for 1.20€.

Skip the tourist crush at the entrance — I take you through the Boqueria the way vendors do, early morning before the crowds, meeting my favourite cheese monger, spice seller, and the best jamón ibérico slicer in the city.

Six stops through the Gothic Quarter's best-kept culinary secrets — from century-old vermut bars to a hidden pintxos spot that only locals know exists. We eat like barcelonins, not tourists.