Al Fahidi is Dubai's oldest surviving neighbourhood — coral-and-gypsum buildings with traditional wind towers that cooled rooms before air conditioning. We walk through it with a historian's eye and I tell you which families built which houses and why they came to Dubai.

Across the Creek by traditional abra boat, through the Spice Souk as it's been for 200 years, and to a café in Bur Dubai where Emirati and Indian traders have eaten together every morning for three generations. Breakfast here costs 8 dirhams.

The Gold Souk at dusk is genuinely extraordinary — 300 shops with every shape of gold jewellery ever imagined. Then dinner at an Emirati restaurant in Deira that was opened for local families and has never needed to market to tourists.

Dubai went from fishing village to global city in 50 years. The Dubai Museum is small, overlooked, and tells a story that is more remarkable than anything in the skyline. We do the museum and then walk to the old fishing boat harbour that still operates.

Karama is where Dubai's South Asian community lives and eats — Keralite fish curry, South Indian breakfast, a bakery that makes the best samosas in the Gulf. We eat through it in one morning and I'll tell you the stories of the families who have been here for three generations.

Satwa is the Dubai that the tourist board doesn't talk about — a South Asian and Middle Eastern working neighbourhood that has the best food in the city and has somehow survived every redevelopment plan. We eat, walk, and I explain why this neighbourhood matters.

Dubai nightlife is not what you expect — yes, there are Burj Khalifa views and champagne towers. But there's also a warehouse district with underground events, a rooftop bar with no Instagram presence, and the best late-night shawarma in the Middle East.