Mouraria is Lisbon's oldest Moorish neighbourhood and the actual birthplace of fado — before it became a tourist attraction in Alfama. We walk through streets that were outside every tourist map 10 years ago and hear the history from someone who grew up here.

Campo de Ourique is Lisbon's most beautiful neighbourhood market — tiled floors, Art Nouveau ironwork, vendors who've been there for 40 years. We spend a morning eating pastéis de nata, bacalhau croquettes, and the best cheese in Portugal.

We eat petiscos (Portuguese tapas) at three different tabernas in Alfama — the neighbourhood's oldest, the chef's favourite, and one that has only six seats — and we end with live fado in a restaurant that hasn't changed since 1960.

I helped open LX Factory, so I know the stories behind every door. Sunday Market is the best in Lisbon — but we also visit the printing press that still runs hot type, the bookshop that fills a whole floor, and the rooftop that most visitors don't find.

Bairro Alto is Europe's densest bar street — hundreds of bars in a few cobbled blocks. Then Cais do Sodré, which went from sailors' brothels to the city's most interesting nightlife in about 10 years. I take you through both and I know where to stop and where to keep walking.