Boutiques, courtyards, and the falafel queue that's worth the wait — Paris's most charming neighbourhood, properly explored.

Three wine bars, real winemaker stories, zero pretension — the Paris wine scene tourists never find.

The photo spots locals actually use — timed perfectly for the best light, away from the tripod crowds.

Paris's best and least-known market — where the actual neighbourhood shops, not where tourists go. We arrive at 8am, buy ingredients, and I show you how to build a perfect French picnic.

The 11th arrondissement is the epicentre of Paris's natural wine revolution. Four bars, four different philosophies — from zero-sulphite orange wine to skin-contact pét-nat. You will either love it or understand why people do.

The best croissant in Paris (not a claim I make lightly), an affineur who ages cheese in a converted medieval cellar, the wine bar where Parisian chefs eat after their shifts, and a chocolate shop that has one product and one only. Four hours, six stops.

The Pompidou has one of the world's great modern art collections — but it's enormous and overwhelming. I build a 2-hour route around 15 works that are genuinely extraordinary, skipping the rest, including the one installation that has made grown adults cry.

Montmartre has two layers — the Sacré-Cœur tourist version and the actual working village underneath it. Vineyard, the only functioning windmill in Paris, the cemetery with a genuinely moving backstory, and the atelier where a friend of mine paints.

Paris's covered passages were the world's first shopping malls — built in the 1820s, mostly forgotten, filled with stamp dealers, vintage bookshops, and an extraordinary tearoom that feels like a dream sequence.

Pigalle cleaned up its act in the 2010s and became something interesting — part red-light nostalgia, part neo-jazz scene, part cocktail culture. We do all three in one evening.

Three rooftop bars — a Montmartre terrace, a Right Bank modernist building with an unlicensed bar, and one legitimately secret access point — with the best view of the city at dusk.